By a Masai Mara Camp Owner & Conservation Traveler
As someone who lives year-round in the Masai Mara running Kambu Campers(and Kambu Mara Camp), I spend most of my time immersed in one of Africa’s most iconic wildlife destinations. But every so often, I take time to explore other corners of Kenya — especially those that are lesser known, quieter, and rich with conservation stories.
Ruma National Park is one of those places.
We travelled to Ruma recently — and I’ll say this without hesitation:
Exploring Ruma was the highlight of our conservation travels this year.
Not just for its stunning landscapes, but because it’s the last remaining home of Kenya’s endangered roan antelope — a species I’ve been curious about for years.
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Ruma National Park — from how to get there, to what to expect, and why this hidden gem deserves more attention.
🐾 Overview of Ruma National Park
- Size: Approx. 120 km²
- Altitude: 1,200–1,600 meters above sea level
- Designation: National Park (gazetted in 1983)
- Unique Feature: The only protected area in Kenya where you can see roan antelope
Often called the “Last Retreat of the Roan Antelope in Kenya,” Ruma is tucked away in the Lambwe Valley, nestled between the Kanyamwa escarpment and the Ruri Hills near Lake Victoria. It’s serene, uncrowded, and wild in the best way.
📍 Location
- Region: Western Kenya
- County: Homa Bay
- Nearest Towns: Mbita, Homa Bay, and Kisii
- Proximity to Lake Victoria: About 30 km from Mbita
- Driving Distance from Nairobi: ~420 km (8–9 hours)
We traveled from Masai Mara via Kisii and Rongo — it was long, scenic, and well worth it. The approach to Ruma feels like you’re stepping into a lost landscape.
🚗 Getting There
By Road:
- From Nairobi: Drive via Narok – Bomet – Kisii – Rongo – Homa Bay – Mbita – Kamato Gate
- From Kisumu: 2.5–3 hours via Kisian – Kendu Bay – Homa Bay
- From Masai Mara: ~7–8 hours via Kisii and Homa Bay
The final stretch after Mbita is partially tarmacked, but expect rough sections, especially in the rainy season. A 4×4 is recommended, though we saw a few saloon cars make it in dry weather.
🚪 Entry Gate & Park Access
Main Gate: Kamato Gate
- Located about 20 km from Mbita town
- Good signage from Mbita
- Operated by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS)
You must check in here and show your eCitizen receipt or pay via Mpesa/card. There’s a small office and occasionally a ranger on duty who can provide local information.
💳 Park Entry Fees (As of 2025)
| Category | Citizens (KES) | Residents (KES) | Non-Residents (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adults | 300 | 600 | 22 |
| Children/Students | 215 | 300 | 13 |
| Vehicle (Private) | ~300–500 KES | ~300–500 KES | Included in ticket |
All payments are made via eCitizen or at the gate (no cash).
🗓️ Best Time to Visit
- Dry Season: June to October and January to February
- The roads are more passable, and wildlife is easier to spot in open areas
- Birding is excellent year-round, with migrants arriving from October to April
We visited in late July, and it was stunning: golden grass, clear skies, and great wildlife sightings.
🐘 Wildlife in Ruma National Park
Ruma may not have the large herds of elephants or predators found in places like the Mara, but it has a unique charm and species mix, including:
🌟 Key Species:
- Roan antelope – extremely rare in Kenya
- Jackson’s hartebeest
- Oribi
- Bohor reedbuck
- Cape buffalo
- Rothschild’s giraffe
- Serval cat
- Leopard – rare, but present
- Warthog, hyena, bushbuck, impala, and baboon
We were lucky enough to spot a small group of roan just after sunrise, grazing quietly near the edge of the escarpment.
🐦 Birdlife in Ruma
Ruma is a birding hotspot, with over 400 species recorded — and that’s not an exaggeration.
Notable Birds:
- Blue swallow (migratory, endangered)
- Abyssinian ground hornbill
- African fish eagle
- Secretary bird
- Crowned crane
- Black-bellied bustard
- Sunbirds, bee-eaters, and weavers
If you’re a birder, bring binoculars and stay at least two nights — the dawn chorus here is unreal.
🌄 Key Attractions & Activities
- Roan Antelope Tracking (Self-drive or ranger-guided)
- Escarpment Lookout Point – sweeping views of the Lambwe Valley
- Birdwatching walks
- Sundowners at open hilltops
- Photography – especially in golden hour over the grasslands
- Lake Victoria day trips (combine with Mbita or Rusinga Island)
🏕️ Accommodation Near Ruma
There is no lodge inside the park, but a few options nearby include:
🛖 Campsites (inside Ruma)
- Nyatoto Campsite: basic KWS site, no facilities (bring own water, gear)
- KWS Self-Catering Bandas (ask ahead, availability is limited)
🏡 Outside the Park:
- Rusinga Island Lodge – luxury, ~1 hour from park
- Lake Victoria Safari Village – mid-range, Mbita
- Wayando Eco Lodge – rustic, lakeside
- Airbnbs in Mbita – good options for families or groups
We camped with our own gear and it was one of the quietest, most peaceful nights I’ve had in any Kenyan park.
🌱 Conservation Efforts & Challenges
The Roan Antelope Crisis
The roan antelope, once widespread in Kenya, is now nearly extinct outside of Ruma. Fewer than 50 individuals remain, and poaching, habitat loss, and genetic isolation continue to threaten the species.
Ruma is the last viable sanctuary. Efforts are underway by KWS and conservation partners to:
- Improve anti-poaching patrols
- Control human encroachment
- Maintain open grazing lands within the park
- Consider translocations or genetic strengthening programs
As a fellow conservationist, it’s heartbreaking to know how fragile their future is — but also inspiring to see local rangers and community members taking this seriously.
🧭 Final Thoughts
Ruma National Park is one of Kenya’s last true hidden gems.
It’s not polished. It’s not crowded. And it’s not easy to get to. But it is wild, rich, and quietly magnificent.
For anyone looking to go beyond the mainstream safari circuit, to support conservation with your travel choices, or to just sit in the grasslands and watch rare antelope graze under a golden sky — Ruma is worth it.
From here in the Mara, I can tell you: Ruma may be quiet, but its voice in conservation matters deeply. I hope more travelers, like you, will listen to it.
🧾 Frequently Asked Questions – Ruma National Park, Kenya
1. Is Ruma National Park safe to visit?
Yes, Ruma is considered safe for visitors. It’s managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and has a low volume of visitors, which keeps it peaceful. Like in any wilderness area, it’s important to stay in your vehicle during game drives and avoid walking far from campsites unless with a guide or ranger.
2. Are guides available inside Ruma National Park?
Yes, you can request a KWS ranger escort at the gate, subject to availability. There is no permanent guiding staff, so it’s best to call the gate or nearby KWS office in advance if you require a guide.
3. Is Ruma National Park accessible by public transport?
No. There is no direct public transport into the park. The closest you can get is Mbita or Homa Bay, and from there, you’ll need a private vehicle, taxi, or pre-arranged transfer to the park gate. A self-drive or private hire is the most reliable way to reach the park.
4. Do I need a 4×4 vehicle in Ruma?
A 4×4 is highly recommended, especially during the rainy season (March–May, November). While some of the roads are gravelled, others can become muddy or impassable. Even in the dry season, a higher-clearance vehicle is more comfortable for game viewing.
5. Can I do a day trip to Ruma from Kisumu or Homa Bay?
Yes, a day trip from Kisumu (2.5–3 hours) or Homa Bay (1.5 hours) is possible, though you’ll need to start early. If you’re interested in wildlife tracking or photography, an overnight stay is better to take advantage of morning and evening light.
6. Is there mobile network coverage inside Ruma?
Coverage is limited inside the park. You may find some signal on hilltops or near the gate, depending on your provider (Safaricom has the best coverage in the region). Don’t rely on having strong or consistent data connections while in the park.
7. Can I book accommodations inside Ruma online?
No — KWS bandas and campsites cannot currently be booked online. You must inquire directly with KWS Homa Bay or the park gate. Bring your own camping gear or book accommodation outside the park in Mbita or on Rusinga Island via platforms like Airbnb or Booking.com.
8. Are self-drives allowed in Ruma National Park?
Yes, Ruma is entirely self-drive friendly. You can explore the park in your own vehicle using the internal loop roads. Make sure you have enough fuel, water, and ideally a physical map or downloaded GPS (as mobile data is patchy).
9. Are there any cultural attractions near Ruma National Park?
Yes — you can explore nearby Luo fishing villages, Rusinga Island’s Tom Mboya Mausoleum, and Mbita town for lakeside culture. These experiences make for an excellent combo with your Ruma wildlife visit.
10. Are night drives allowed in Ruma?
No — night game drives are not allowed in Ruma National Park. Visitors must exit the park or be inside designated camping areas before 6:00 PM, in line with KWS regulations.
11. Can I combine Ruma with Lake Victoria activities?
Absolutely! Ruma is just a short drive from Lake Victoria and makes a great stop in combination with:
- Boat trips on the lake
- Fishing excursions with local guides
- Visits to Rusinga or Mfangano Island (via ferry or boat taxi)
12. What should I pack when visiting Ruma National Park?
Essentials include:
- Binoculars
- Camera with zoom lens (for birding and antelope)
- Sunscreen and insect repellent
- Hat and lightweight clothing for daytime, warm layers for evening
- Snacks and drinking water (no shops inside the park)
- Basic tools or tire repair kit for self-drivers